Back on the east side, I wandered into the back garden of Shangri-La: one of many former drunk dives that have been rehabilitated into hospitable boites, complete with back patio with trees and lights. I arrived in time to catch Fingaar Bangaar: an instrumental outfit that mixes rock with traditional Indian raga, complete with sitar and percussion. It sounded a bit like Santana with softer breaks, but no less intense. Actually, it was a totally new sound, which is why we come here in the first place, right?